How to Make a Corner Label with Hanging Pockets

After I finished my Hearts & Feather wholecloth quilt, I wanted a simple way to add a label and hanging tabs so I used the folded square method that’s been gaining popularity lately.  Here’s a picture of the back of my quilt, before adding the binding:

Hanging Tabs and LabelIt’s super easy to do. Just cut a 5″ square or larger for the label and two smaller 3″ squares for the corner tabs. Fold in half and sew them on the backside of your quilt in the appropriate corners. You can attach the binding after which will cover the stitching.

Fabric SquaresFolded SquaresI wrote information on the triangle label, added binding, and stitched down the 3rd side by hand. I added a dowel between the two corner pockets for hanging.

Hanging DowelCorner LabelThis is the easiest label method I’ve ever done. Maybe I’ll actually start labeling all my quilts now, LOL!!

Binding by Machine

Sometimes when I don’t have enough time to finish the binding on a quilt by hand, I will often do it by machine. When I do, it’s nearly impossible to hide the machine stitches, so I opt for making the binding a decorative element on the quilt. In my latest project, the Double Wedding Ring quilt I made for my sister in law, I used a decorative thread for the binding which matched the thread I used for quilting. It showed up nicely on the black:

Machine BindingMy Bernina makes a wonderful serpentine stitch which I use for both binding and even machine quilting when I’m in a hurry. The picture above shows the front of the binding. Below is the back side of another machine bound quilt using the same stitch.

Machine BindingI wrote up a nice tutorial about machine binding for a friend of mine who had forgotten how. You can read about that on my blog here: Machine Binding Demo 2011

Also, check out this fantastic video tutorial from Leah Day, posted here with her permission. I especially love her sample using the button-hole stitch as a decorative stitch.  The main difference between our two methods is that I stitch from the back while Leah stitches from the front. Now I can’t wait to try her technique!

You can check out loads of Leah’s other fantastic machine quilting tutorials by visiting her blog at: freemotionquilting.blogspot.com

Baby Bricks Free Quilt Pattern Tutorial

Here is one of my favorite quilt designs I want to tell you about, that I call “Baby Bricks”. I’m developing a pattern for it so I’m making lots of “tester” quilts as part of the process. Enjoy this free tutorial version but please note that these are copyrighted images and text.

Baby Boy PrintsI love taking a pile of fabric and cutting it up into useable rectangular pieces.

Cut BricksA piece of “Cute as a Button” flannel for the backing was the inspiration for the color scheme.  It also limited how big the quilt would be. Since there are two sides to every fabric, I used the backside of one of my blue bricks since the right side was too “girly.”

Flannel BackingBaby BluesCut out as many rectangle bricks as you want to make your quilt big enough. Make them as wide or as long as you want.

I like to offset each of the rows so it gives a “staggered” look. To do this, fill in the gaps with 1/2 of a rectangle (plus seam allowances).

Brick Rows

Brick LayoutQuilt TopRandomly sew the bricks together to create rows, then sew the rows together into the top.

I laid all my bricks out into a pleasing arrangement first.

Bundle of Joy Quilting

It was fun to Precious Quiltingstitch baby phrases on the quilt.

Here’s the finished quilt, made for a friend’s new little baby boy.

Baby Bricks QuiltI’m making the green version for my sister’s new baby boy. It still needs a few more monkeys!

Green Baby Bricks


Updated: Baby Bricks is has now been featured at FaveQuilts.com.

Click here to see my other featured tutorials.

Machine Binding Demo

Here’s the step-by-step process I use when binding my quilts by machine. The method is similar for traditional hand finished hidden-stitched bindings, too. Be advised, this post has lots of pictures. Many are shrunk to fit. Click on the individual pictures for closeup details.

First, start by squaring up your quilt with a 90 degree corner. Use long rulers to trim the sides. Trim the batting and backing flush with the top.

Square Up the QuiltEdges Trimmed EvenYes, I dress up when I sew. Don’t you?? 🙂

Next, I select my binding pieces. Usually it’s a color to match the top. For this quilt, I used leftover pieces for a scrappy binding. Measure around the perimeter to find the total length needed. I cut enough 2 1/4″ strips to go around, adding about 10-12 inches to the total perimeter for seam allowances and mitering at the corners. Join the strips together with a miter to form a continuous strip. Trim the excess corners.

Measure the Perimeter

Measure Perimeter

Join Strips with a Miter

Miter Corners

Trim Excess

Trim Excess

Press all of the seams open, then fold the whole strip wrong sides together and press along the length with an iron. It should now measure about 1 1/8 inches wide with right sides showing. Trim the start of your binding on a 45 degree angle. For your convenience and to prevent tangles, you can wrap a ready-to-sew binding around an empty spool of thread.

Press Seams Open

Press Open

Right Sides Out

Right Sides Out

Binding Spool

Binding Storage

Top Stitch

Top Stitch

Sew off Corner

Sew off Corner

Angle Binding Up

Angle Up

Start sewing with the binding on top of the quilt, face up. Stitch with a slightly wider than 1/4″ seam.

Leave at least a 5 inch “tail” and start on a side, away from the corners.

When you get to the corner, stop 1/4″ away from the edge, pivot and sew off at the corner. Then, take the binding out of the machine, and flip it up so that it is flush with the edge. Next,  flip it back down and create a tuck underneath by folding the excess piece.

Folding Down

Folding Down

Excess Tuck

Excess Tuck

Fold Back

Fold Back

The excess piece will form the miter on the front.

You can now start sewing the rest of the binding onto the front, stopping and repeating the same process at each corner. When you get back to the beginning, stop with a gap between the beginning and ending pieces. Trim off some of the excess (green in the photo) but not too much. Then mark the angle where the beginning piece meets the end.

Begin Again

Begin Again

Leave a Gap

Leave a Gap

Mark the Fit

Mark the Fit

Using a small ruler, measure 1/2″ away from this marked line. The line should be on a 45 degree angle and you are cutting 1/2″ away from this. This will enable the ending and beginning pieces to fit nicely together. Sew them together, offsetting the little dog eared triangles to get an even seam. This will connect your continuous binding, start to end.

Measure 1/2 Inch

1/2" From Mark

Close The Gap

Close The Gap

Connect the Ends

Connect the Ends

Close the Fold

Close the Fold

Stitch Down the Rest

Sew the Close

Close the fold and trim the “ears”.

Then sew the gap closed.

Now you are ready to flip the binding to the back and stitch it down by machine (or hand if desired). I stitch from the backside of the quilt, so the bobbin thread will be in a color to match the topside of the quilt. My favorite machine stitch is the serpentine stitch. It is both functional and decorative and it hides mistakes. Plus if you meander a little off the edge it still works!

Stitch on Back

Stitch on Back

Be sure to click on the picture to see details!

Serpentine Stitch

Serpentine Stitch

When you get to a corner you need to fold up one edge, then the other and continue sewing.

Fold Corner

Fold Corner

Other Side

Other Side

This binding looks as pretty on the back….

Machine Stitched BindingAs it does on the front!

Front