This week it’s time to finish sewing the Sea of Squares quilt top. If you are just joining me, please scroll down to the end for links to each step of this do-it-yourself quilt tutorial. It took me a total of 2.5 hours to complete the steps shown below.

Step 1 – Quilt Layout (30 minutes)

Lay out all 42 of your blocks on a design wall or other large flat surface, or even the floor. Play around with your block arrangement until you find a pleasing composition. Take pictures of any arrangements you like as you “play.”

Arrange your blocks in a 6 x 7 grid – 7 rows of 6 blocks each. Be sure to alternate between your X and O blocks and distribute your values and colors evenly.

Step 2 – Sewing the Rows (1 Hour)

For this quilt layout, it’s easiest to sew the top together in rows. I numbered them 1 through 7.  You can press all of the odd blocks in one direction, and all of the even rows in the opposite direction so that seams will nestle together when sewing.

If the darker fabric shows through the white, you may choose to press your seams open.

For a speedy sewing tip, I stacked up all of my blocks into pairs of two next to my sewing machine. I  added a pin to the right had side to indicate this is the side I will be sewing.

Before sewing, I took a photo of my layout with camera’s phone. I referred to the layout as I sewed the rows together and was able to keep the blocks lined up in order. I continued joining the blocks together in order until I had 7 rows of sewn blocks.

Since my design wall was too small for all of the rows, I used part of the floor, too!

Step 3 – Completing the Quilt Top (1 Hour)

First, sew the top two rows together.

Pin at all of the intersections (I like using flat-head flower pins).

Be sure to remove your pins just before you get to them so you don’t accidentally break a needle. (Ask me how I know?!)

Next, sew together rows 3-4 and 5-6 together in the same manner.

Row 7 will be on it’s own. Next, you can join each of these segments into larger “chunks”.

Join rows 1-4 and rows 5-7.

Add these two “chunks” together to complete the quilt top.

Give your top a final pressing and set aside. Or do what I do:  leave it up on your design wall for awhile to admire it until it’s time to baste and quilt!

I have decided to split apart the backing and basting into two separate tutorials so I can go more in-depth with each. Next week I will show how to sew a pieced quilt backing, either all from the same fabric, or from bits and pieces from your stash (my favorite). You need a total of 3 1/2 yards for the backing (perhaps a little more if piecing lots of chunks together).

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Due to the popularity of this quilt kit, I have put together a limited number of kits in an alternate colorway. This one is called Apple Jacks and would be perfect for a little boy!

Quilt-Along Schedule – Links are Active at the Completion of Each Step:

• Week 1 – Supply List
  
• Week 2 – Sorting and Cutting the Charms
  
• Week 3 – Sewing the Blocks
• Week 4 – Completing the Quilt Top
• Week 5 – Piecing the Backing
• Week 6 – Basting
• Week 7 – Machine Quilting
• Week 8 – Optional Extra Quilting
• Week 9 – Machine Binding to Finish

Be sure to post pictures of your progress on my flickr group: Christa’s Quilt Along.

Quilt Kits are available for a limited time.

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Today it’s time to sew all of the cut pieces and charms together to make our Sea of Squares blocks. We will sew a total of 21 “X” blocks and 21 “O” blocks. It took me 4.5 hours total.

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Step 1 – Sewing the X blocks (2.5 Hours)

I like to chain piece as much as possible. This means sewing the pieces together in an assembly-line fashion without cutting your threads in between pieces until you are done.

Start with the middle section of the X block which is composed of one dark 5 inch charm and two white (light) 2.5 x 5 inch rectangles.  Use 1/4 inch seam allowances at all times.

To chain piece this section, sew 21 white rectangles to one side of all 21 dark charms. Then go back and add 21 white rectangles to the other side of all 21 charms.

You should have a total of 21 completed “middle” sections. Finger press your seam allowances open or to the darker fabric. I like to use a wooden seam roller for this.

I prefer to use a seam roller whenever I can, especially when working with white fabric. I use the iron as little as possible to reduce the chances of scorching or distorting my fabrics. If you press nice and firmly with the seam roller, the seams will lie down nicely. Then I give the blocks a final pressing with an iron at the end.

After the middles are complete, sew all of the tops and bottoms. I like to sort all 4 of each smaller dark square together so it’s easier to stay organized and sew each as needed.

Sew a small dark  2.5 inch square to either side of a light 2.5 x 5 inch rectangle. Repeat this for a total of 42 units (21 for the top and 21 for the bottom). Press toward the dark fabric.

Pinning at intersections, join the top part of your block to all of the middles. Be sure to take out your pins as you go so you don’t sew over them.

Add the bottoms to all of your blocks in the same manner and press seams open.

Step 2 – Sewing the O Blocks (2 Hours)

The O blocks are sewn together in the same manner but with reversed fabric placement. It took me a little less time to sew them because I was in my groove!

Again, starting with the middles, add the same dark rectangle to either side of a white (light) charm. Repeat this for 21 middles.

Moving on to the tops and bottoms of the O block, add one white square to the end of 42 dark rectangles. Then repeat for the other end of the rectangle until you have 42 sewn units.

Add a top and bottom unit to each side of your middle. Again, pin and chain piece all of the top units; then go back and chain piece all of the bottom units.

Press all of the final seams open so that you can eliminate the shadowing of the darker fabric through the white background. Do this with an iron, but be careful not to scorch the fabric.

You should have a total of 42 blocks, half X’s, and half O’s. They should all measure 9 inches from raw edge to raw edge. The finished size of these blocks will be 8.5 inches. If your blocks are larger or smaller, it’s ok. As long as they are all the same size the design will work.

That’s it for this lesson! Next week we will put them up on a design wall and “play” to find a pleasing arrangement.

Quilt-Along Schedule – Links are Active at the Completion of Each Step:

• Week 1 – Supply List
  
• Week 2 – Sorting and Cutting the Charms
• Week 3 – Sewing the Blocks
• Week 4 – Completing the Quilt Top
• Week 5 – Piecing the Backing
• Week 6 – Basting
• Week 7 – Machine Quilting
• Week 8 – Optional Extra Quilting
• Week 9 – Machine Binding to Finish

Please email me pictures of your progress on this quilt or any of my previous tutorials! You can reach me at christa@christaquilts.com.

Quilt Kits for Sea of Squares and all of my other blog tutorials are available in my shop for a limited time.

This week we will start our Sea of Squares quilt by cutting all the pieces from charm packs: 2 light and 2 dark. I used 2 packs of Seascapes and 2 packs of White Bella Solids. As long as you have great contrast between your light and dark charms, this quilt will turn out great!

It took me just under an hour to complete this week’s homework.

Step 1 – Sorting the Squares (10 Minutes)

This seems like a very basic step, but it is important to sort all of the squares so that you cut them correctly. Of course you can make your quilt as scrappy as you like, and then you don’t need to worry as much about fabric placement.

Each block is made from 4 charm squares – 2 of the same dark plus 2 of the same light.
Let’s call them X blocks and O blocks.

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The X blocks have a dark charm in the middle with matching smaller squares in the corners. The O blocks have a light charm in the middle with matching light squares in the corners. You will be sewing a total of 21 X blocks and 21 O blocks.

Sort your 84 dark charms into 2 piles  – 42 charms for the X blocks (2 identical charms per X),  and 42 charms for the  for the O blocks (2 identical charms per O).

Moda charm packs are wonderful because each comes with exactly 42 squares with the same number of duplicates per pack. (Print placement may vary depending on how it’s cut).

Sort your 84 light charm packs into 3 piles:

1. Pile 1 = 21 white charms (whole) for the block centers.
2. Pile 2 = 21 white charms (to cut) for the little squares.
3. Pile 3 = 42 white charms (to cut) for the rectangles.

Step 2 – Cutting the Dark (Print) Charms (25 minutes)

From your “X” pile, pull out 1 of each charm for a total of 21 intact squares.

From the remaining 21 squares, cut them into 4 – 2.5 x 2.5 inch squares each. You should then have a total of 84 smaller squares that match the prints of the larger squares.

From your “O” pile, cut all of the squares in half yielding 2 rectangles each. You should have a total of 84 dark rectangles measuring 2.5 x 5 inches each.

Step 3 – Cutting the Light (White) Charms (15 minutes)

Set aside pile 1 which is composed of 21 light squares (5 inches square).

From pile 2, cut the 21 light squares into 4 equal smaller squares each. You should have a total of 84 small light squares, measuring 2.5 x 2.5 inches each.

From pile 3, cut all 42 light squares in half yielding 2 rectangles each. You should have a total of 84 half square rectangles, measuring 2.5 x 5 inches each.

Now that your pieces are all cut out, you are ready to begin sewing the top together next week. Wasn’t that fun?

Quilt-Along Schedule – Links are Active at the Completion of Each Step:

• Week 1 – Supply List
  
• Week 2 – Sorting and Cutting the Charms (today’s post above)
  
• Week 3 – Sewing the Blocks
• Week 4 – Completing the Quilt Top
• Week 5 – Piecing the Backing
• Week 6 – Basting
• Week 7 – Machine Quilting
• Week 8 – Optional Extra Quilting
• Week 9 – Machine Binding to Finish

You can email me pictures of your progress at christa@christaquilts.com. I can’t wait to see all the variety and possibilities with this quilt!