Favorite Tools – Flickr!

I finally decided to jump on the Flickr bandwagon and I hope you will, too! I have created a Flickr group especially for my quilt-along tutorials, and the link for you to join is:

http://www.flickr.com/groups/christasquiltalong/

Jolly Jelly RollPink Baby BricksBlue Baby BricksCharming ChevronsSea of Squares


So before I go any further, I want to answer the question, what the heck is flickr all about? I’m answering because I’ve had this thought for several months now since I first heard of it.

Simply put, flickr is an interactive forum where you can post pictures, engage in discussions, and comment on other people’s photos and conversations. There are literally thousands of different groups on flickr, each moderated by the group’s creator.

My quilt-along group is a great supplement to my blog because you can post pictures of the quilts you are working on, ask me questions, and get input from anyone else in the group.

flickr

I have long lamented that I didn’t have a good way for you to share your WIP’s (works-in-progress) but now you can! And the best part is, you don’t even need a blog to participate – just a free flickr account.

My friend Alyssa from Pile O’ Fabric moderates a group on flickr for her Skillbuilder Block of the Month. She has put together 3 fantastic video tutorials showing how to create a flickr account and join some groups. Watch them and then be sure to join my group (and hers!)

Tuesday Tools – Wooden Seam Roller Giveaway Winner

From time to time I like to blog about some of my favorite quilting tools. Several months ago as part of my favorite tools series, I first mentioned using a wooden seam roller rather than finger pressing or ironing my seams. I was frustrated at the time because I couldn’t find a wholesale source for these so that I could sell them in my store.

Wooden Seam Roller

Wooden Seam Roller

Then I took a class from Deb Karasik who turned me onto the idea of using a wooden wallpaper roller as a pressing tool for paper piecing. Eureka! Not only does it do the job, but it is wider than my original tool which makes it easier to “seam press” regular blocks, too.

In fact, I will be showing how I used the wooden seam roller in my next DIY quilt tutorial tomorrow!  So now I’m happy to say I have these tools available in my shop. And I’m even happier to say that I’ve decided to give one away to one lucky blog reader.

To enter this giveaway, leave a comment on this post telling me what quilting project you are currently working on. You can even include a link to your blog  in your comments if you want to share a picture of it!

On Friday around 5 PM Pacific Time, I will randomly select one winner from all of the comments posted. I will update this blog at that time to announce the winner (and will also contact him or her separately via email.) So good luck this week and happy pressing!


Updated – We have a winner!!!

First of all I want to share how much fun it was to read about what everyone was working on. Thank you all for your wonderful comments – I do read them all!

Congratulations to Brooke who said “I’m working on a quilt using Sweetwater’s Notworthy…Simply Woven quilt tutorial from Moda Bake Shop.”

Enjoy your seam roller and let me know how you like it. 🙂

Christa’s Quilt Along 3.9 – Finishing Charming Chevrons

Free Quilt Pattern

Be sure to sign up for my email newsletter to get a free pattern!

I’ve come to the end of my Charming Chevrons tutorial and it’s kind of sad. I really loved every minute of making this quilt! Today I will demo binding. Scroll to the end for links to the previous steps plus my announcement for my next DIY quilt-along starting next week!

Charming Chevrons Quilt

Christa’s Charming Chevrons

If you like this quilt and want to make one just like it, Charming Chevrons quilt kits are available from my shop for a limited time.

Step 1 – Trimming The Edges (10 Minutes)

When the quilting has been completed and all of your basting pins removed, it’s time to trim the extra backing and batting and square up your quilt.

CornersEdges


Use a large square ruler for the corners and a long 6 to 8 inch wide ruler for the sides. The markings on the ruler help keep things nice and even. I use the long lines to make sure I am cutting straight.

If the quilt seems a little wavy, I will block it at the end after binding by soaking it in the washing machine, and laying it out flat on a table to dry. (I do this only if I know for sure the fabrics won’t bleed when wet – I’ve had way too many “accidents.”)

Step 2 – Making the Binding Strips (15 Minutes)

Binding 2I sew continuous double fold straight grain binding strips that I make myself.

Cut enough 2 1/4″ wide strips to go around the perimeter plus about 10 extra inches.

For this quilt I cut a total of 7 strips that measured 2 1/4″ by the width of the fabric (40″-42″).

Join the strips together on a mitered (45 degree) angle to smooth out the seam formed by sewing the strips.

Join all the strips together so that you have one continuous piece with the joined seams all going the same direction.


At the beginning of the binding, cut off one end at a 45 degree angle. Then press the binding in half lengthwise (press seam allowances open).

Angled Binding

Press Binding


Step 3 – Attaching the Binding to the Quilt by Machine (35 Minutes)

Sewing the BindingLeave a few inches of a “tail” unsewn when you begin.

Do not start at a corner, and quickly measure your binding around the perimeter of the quilt to ensure it is long enough.

Try not to end up where you have any of your seams in the corners. Adjust your start if needed.

Use a matching cotton thread in the top and bobbin and use the same thread to finish your binding (whether by hand or machine).

Using a walking foot, sew with 1/4″ seam allowances and stop when you reach exactly 1/4″ inch from the end of your first corner. Take the quilt off the machine and fold the corner like the pictures below. This will create nice crisp mitered corners when you fold them over.

Click on the pictures below to see a larger version for more detailed closeups.


Stop at Corner

Fold Up

Fold Down


Repeat for all corners of the quilt and leave a few inches of “tail” when you near the end.

Binding EndOpen up both folded ends and with a pen, mark where the beginning meets the end.

Cut off the excess 1/2″ away from the marked line (for seam allowances) and join the two ends together.

You can see I cut off a full extra strip’s length of binding but just barely!

It’s better to have too much length than not enough!

Once your ends are joined, finish  sewing down the binding completely to the front of the quilt.


Step 4 – Hold the Binding in Place With Pins or Glue  (30 Minutes)

To baste the binding in place on back, I usually use pins and Pinmoors.  However, for this quilt, I wanted to try a glue pen to temporarily adhere the binding to the back of the quilt.  It worked like a charm and I got to see what the quilt looked like before it was done. I was even able to glue the corners in place to form a pretty miter. That will be much easier to sew!

Glue Stick


Step 4 – Finish by Hand or Machine (Hand Sewing 5 Hours)

Whether I finish my binding by hand or machine, the above steps are still the same. Because I finished this quilt for QuiltCon (and possibly other quilt shows), I chose to sew by hand.  So I got nice and comfy on the couch and watched a couple movies while I stitched away.

Binding by Hand

For more info on both types of finishes, you can read my post about hand-binding and my machine binding tutorial.

Charming Chevrons Tutorials. Click the links below to go to that post.

Here are Charming Chevron’s Vital Statistics

  • Original design, pieced and quilted by Christa Watson
  • Finished size 46″ x 54″, completed November 2012
  • Finished block size 8″, 42 blocks total
  • Made from 4 packs of Kona Cotton charm squares (2 New Classic colors, 2 Ash grey)
  • Pieced backing, shades of grey with pops of color
  • Double batting (Warm-N-Natural and Legacy Wool)
  • Superior Highlights trilobal polyester in top and bobbin  for pebbles (18 colors)
  • Isacord Sterling polyester in top and bobbin for chevron outlines
  • Total piecing time: 9.5 hours
  • Marking and basting: 2.5 hours
  • Total quilting time: 28 hours
  • Total binding time: 6.75 hours

Sharing is Caring

Please share your work in progress in my facebook group: Quilt With Christa . 🙂

Paper Pieced Wreath Berry Christmas – Part 2 of 2

I’m back with the second part of my Paper Pieced Log Cabin Christmas Wreath. You can see part 1 here.

Today I will demo the rest of paper piecing the blocks, finishing the top, and machine quilting my mini-quilt to finish.

Here is a refresher of the paper piecing process from last week with a few more detailed pictures. My favorite method of paper piecing uses a straight edge and an add a quarter ruler. Be sure to click the images below for closeups.


Paper Piece 1Paper Piece 2Paper Piece 3


Paper Piece 4
Paper Piece 5

20121211_pp_6


Step 1 – Paper Piece all of your Log Cabin Blocks from Last Week

(You can download the log cabin foundations for free or you can purchase a set of printed foundations on lightweight see-through vellum paper from my store.)

  • Add your next log to a freshly trimmed side.
  • Flip over and sew from the paper side following the  numbered lines in order
  • Press your sewn seam with a wooden seam roller
  • Fold the paper on the next seam number that you will be sewing (use a business card or postcard as a straight edge)
  • Pull back your excess fabric, use the add a quarter inch ruler and trim the excess.
  • When all 16 blocks are sewn, trim from the paper side leaving 1/4″ seams all around

Wreath 1

Wreath 2

Wreath 3


Wreath 5
Wreath 5


Step 2 – Sew The Top

  • Lay out your 16 Log Cabin blocks so that they form a wreath shape.
  • Sew each row into pairs and then the pairs into rows of 4 blocks
  • Finger press your seams open, or press with a wooden seam roller
  • Join the rows to complete the top
  • Once the top is complete, carefully remove all the papers
  • Add the thinner red borders to the sides and top
  • Add the wider green borders around the outside

Log Cabin Wreath

Step 3 – Baste and Quilt

I quilt everything on my regular Bernina home sewing machine and I love it!

Straight QuiltingI use Pinmoors and flat flower pins to baste all of my quilts because they are so easy to remove while machine quilting.

Quilting Loops

Before basting, I marked straight lines around the wreath design with a water soluble pen. Always be sure to test your fabrics for marking removal and to make sure they won’t bleed when they get wet.

I quilted the straight lines with my walking foot. Then I added double loops in the borders and smaller loops in the background with my free-motion foot.

I used matching solid red fabric for the binding. For this quilt, I tried a Sewline glue pen to keep the binding in place on the back while finishing by hand.  It keeps my binding nice and tidy!

Sewline Glue PenYou can see an in-depth binding tutorial here.

Voila! It’s finished!

Log Cabin Wreath, Pieced and Quilted by Christa Wason 18" x 18"

Log Cabin Wreath, Pieced and Quilted by Christa Watson
18″ x 18″

I have tons more ideas of what you can do with these blocks:

  • Use as the center of a larger quilt.
  • Sew a pillow, wall-quilt or table topper
  • Make more blocks for a larger throw sized quilt
  • Turn one block into a Christmas Ornament
  • Make matching placemats

That was fun. Be sure to email me pictures when you make one, too!

Christa’s Quilt Along 3.8 – Quilting Chevrons Part 2

I love quilting pebbles! I have stippled my quilts like crazy for the last 10 years, but just recently got the hang of pebbling. Jut in time,  too, as I was on stipple burnout!!

Pebble Quilting

The time it took to finish the pebbling on my Charming Chevrons quilt was a little ridiculous though – it took 23 hours!! Yes, that’s right. The pebbling took more time to do than every other part of the quilt combined. It gives new meaning to the term Quilt-in-a -Day, LOL!!

Since I don’t really expect everyone to spend that much time quilting this quilt, I will first talk about pebbling in more detail, but then give you an alternative so that you can actually finish this quilt. (But by all means do the pebbling if your heart desires – mine did!)

Step 1 – Doodle on Paper First

Just like you had to learn your alphabet before you could write, so it is with quilting any FMQ (free-motion quilting) design. When I was in kindergarten my penmanship was terrible! (And it hasn’t really improved much since!) You need to practice your quilting “penmanship”, too!

Paper Practice

If you doodle on scraps of paper every day before you begin quilting, it will help you develop muscle memory between what you are drawing with your hands and what you are stitching out on the quilt. This will form a mind body connection so that eventually you will be able quilt without thinking. Think of FMQ as drawing with your sewing needle.

Step 2 – Practice on Scraps Next

I took a few FMQ classes at Road to California 2 years ago. For most of the class, we just made practice samples. If you really want the feeling of completing FMQ on a quilt, practice on charity quilts. You will get great practice and the recipients will love your efforts!

Practice Scraps

When I began free-motion quilting, my first efforts looked pretty bad. It took a while for me to put together different combinations of fabric, thread, batting, needles and tension settings. A few quick things I learned while practicing FMQ on my Bernina:

  • Select a needle with a large hole so that the thread doesn’t shred, like Superior Topstich needles. The size depends on the thickness of your thread (size 90 for the heavier polyster thread). Change every 8-12 hours of quilting. I used 3 of them on this quilt.
  • Loosen the bobbin tension slightly.
  • Use the same thread in top and bobbin for most quilts – it hides mistakes and makes for more even tension. I used Superior Highlights polyester in a rainbow of colors.
  • Break your quilting up into sections and don’t rush the process. Although it took a long time to quilt my pebbles, it really worked out to about 33 minutes per chevron block.  Quilting one block a day is not a bad goal.
  • Use a free motion slider, quilting gloves, and bobbin washers for the best quilting combo.
  • It’s Ok to “travel stitch” over your previous lines to get into all the nooks and crannies.

Step 3 – Apply your practice to your actual quilt

Thread DrawerFor this quilt I changed threads with every fabric color. I never could find a neutral that blended in with everything so I used a total of 18 different colors.

When I didn’t have an exact match, I used something close. It gave the quilt some interest without being overpowering.

I quilted the pebbles in sections first.

I quilted a batch of greens, then oranges, then reds, then blues, etc. This helped me from getting too bored. Usually I like to off each my stitches between thread changes. However, because I stitched over many of my quilting lines to form the pebbles, it hid most of my stops and starts. Therefore, I cheated a little and used really small “anchor” stitches at the beginning and end of each color change to avoid tying off.

Pebble Quilting

Step 4 – Alternative Quilting Motif – Loops

Loop QuiltingIf  you are not crazy like me and don’t want to spend this much time quilting your chevrons, try a simple meandering loop instead.

This is my other “go-to” design and it covers your area pretty quickly. In fact, this motif would look great quilted all over the surface if you want to skip the straight line background quilting.

Here’s a little background quilting I did using loops on an earlier quilt. Click to enlarge.

Because I used so many threads, my quilt back turned out just as colorful as the front!

Chevron Quilt Back

Other Resources

Please visit Leah Day at the Free Motion Quilting Project.  Her blog has so many in-depth tutorials on stitching particular FMQ designs. She has a video tutorial showing how to do pebble quilting and loops.

Yes, it was a little crazy to quilt that much, but honestly, I loved every minute of it! Next week it will be time to finish the binding and then I’ll start on another brand new tutorial. Isn’t this fun?? Be sure to check out my other two quilt-alongs here and here.

And, please continue to email me pictures of your Charming Chevrons quilt. I love to see how you are doing, no matter how you quilt it!

Quilt Along Schedule (Links are active once each step has been completed.)

Paper Pieced Wreath Berry Christmas – Part 1 of 2

Paper Pieced Log Cabin WreathThis is a Christmas Wreath quilt I designed and made from paper-pieced Log Cabin blocks.

Since I can’t make anything anymore without feeling the need to write a tutorial for it, here you go:

I will demo making the log cabin blocks today. Part 2 covers completing the top and machine quilting.

The finished block size is 3″. The finished mini quilt (or table topper or pillow) is 18″ x 18.”

Step 1 – Gather Your tools and supplies. These are not a necessity, but as with any project, they make the job easier!

  • Rotary Cutter
  • Wooden Seam Roller for pressing
  • Add a Quarter Ruler for neatly trimming while piecing
  • A straight edge surface such as a postcard or piece of template plastic
  • Vellum Tracing Paper to print the foundations on
  • 1/2 yard of red fabric for centers, borders and binding (or scraps to equal that much)
  • 1/4 yard of cream to tan fabric for light half of log cabin blocks (or scraps)
  • 1/2 yard total of assorted green fabric scraps for log wreaths and border
  • FQ of green for outer border
  • Size 90 sewing needles for sewing through paper foundations
  • Small scissor snips for trimming
  • Cotton Thread for piecing
  • Your choice of decorative thread for machine quilting

Step 2 – Cutting all the logs. I prefer to have everything cut out before I begin my sewing. The pieces are cut bigger and will be trimmed later. Although there are 4 sizes of  light logs and 4 sizes of dark logs, I cut only 2 sizes for each. It wastes a tiny bit more fabric, but it’s easier to keep things organized, especially if I change my mind on fabric placement.

A little note on cutting pieces to fit – measure the finished size of your pieces and add 3/4  inch to this measurement (more if working with triangles). The units used for paper piecing have the extra 3/4 inch added in already.

Fabric cuts are based on 20-22″ long strips for working with fat quarters.

From the red fabric cut (if you cut very carefully you can get it all from just one fq):Red Fabric

  • 16 – 1.75″ squares for centers
  • 4 – 1.25 ” x 16″ strips for inner borders (to trim down later)
  • 4 – 2 .25″ strips for binding (2 strips if using 42″ wide fabric)

From assorted white, cream, or tan scraps, cut 10 – 1.25″ wide Cream Fabricstrips. Cross-cut into:

  • 32 – 1.25″ x 2.25″ rectangles
  • 32 – 1.25 x 3.25″ rectangles

From assorted green scraps, cut 12 – 1.25″ wide strips. Cross-cut into: Green Fabric

  • 32 – 1.25″ x 2.75″ rectangles
  • 32 – 1.25″ x 3.75″ rectangles

From green border fabric, cut 4 – 2.25″ x 22″ strips (trim later)


Step 3 – Printing the Paper Foundations

You can download the paper pieced log cabin block pattern by clicking the image below. There are 4 per page, so you would need to print 4 pages for a total of 16 blocks. Be sure to set your printer to print the PDF at actual size, not print to fit.

Paper Pieced Log Cabin Blocks

You can print on copy paper but it is much easier to see what you are doing if you use see-through paper (vellum) instead. Cut apart your paper foundations leaving a seam allowance all around. It is printed in grey-scale so you can tell which side of the block is light and which is dark. The blocks are printed as a mirror image for this technique.

Step 4 – Sewing the Paper Pieced Log Cabins

There are a lot of pictures for this next section so I have shrunk them down in order. Just click on any picture to enlarge so you can see the details.

Line up your red square so that the BACK of the fabric touches the BACK of the paper. (Kind of tricky with solids – I know!) With right sides together, line up your first short white log on top of the red square, with about 1/4 inch overlapping your sewing line.

This first two pictures show the back side. You will be sewing from the front.

Log Cabin 1

Log Cabin 2

Log Cabin 3

You can see a shadow where the fabric is sticking out far enough for the seam allowance.

Remember to start and end 1/8 to 1/4 inch before and after the line. Use a smaller stitch length and a larger needle. Sew on the line between A1 and A2.

Log Cabin 4

Log Cabin 5

Log Cabin 6Log Cabin 7

Remove the block from the machine and clip threads. Use a wooden seam roller to press the newly sewn piece to the side. Flip the block back over to the front and using a straight edge (like a business card), fold over the paper on the next sewing line (between A1 & A3).

Log Cabin 8

Log Cabin 9Log Cabin 10Log Cabin 11

The excess seam will be exposed. (You may need to tug the fabric from the paper a bit to get it to lie flat.) To trim it neatly, use the add-a-quarter ruler to create a ridge on top of your block, paper, and straight edge. Trim off the excess. Flip the block over and add your next light log along the newly trimmed edge. Sewing on the printed side, sew the next seam.

Log Cabin 12

Log Cabin 14Log Cabin 15Continue sewing in this manner until all of your logs have been added. Remember to Sew, then Press, then Trim each seam.

Once the block is complete you can trim off the excess leaving 1/4″ seam allowances.

Make your first block completely to test your process. Once you are satisfied with the results,  Repeat to make a total of 16 blocks. You can sew all of the same steps at the same time to speed up the process. When you are done with the blocks, you may remove all the foundations, or keep them on until your complete your top.

Sew and Tell and Giveaway Winners!

I quilted all weekend on my Charming Chevrons quilt and am really pleased with the progress so far. It was pure bliss to sew for hours on end while my hubby entertained the kiddos with movies and games. But more about that later. Here’s a sneak peek, and I’ll post more pictures on this week’s Do-It-Yourself Quilt Along.

Christa's Charming Chevrons

Diana, AKA Quilting Grandma sent me a picture of her version of Charming Chevrons, made from Berenstain Bears Charm Packs. Aren’t the colors just wonderful?? I love how she added the extra borders, and her choice of solid green for the background is just awesome!

Diana's Chevrons

And I couldn’t resist sharing this picture of Martha from Illinois, modeling her Machingers Quilting Gloves on her new Tiara machine. I have to say I’m a little bit jealous of all that quilting space under the machine!

Quilting with Machingers

That got me to thinking, wouldn’t it be fun to win some of my favorite gadgets and quilting tools I talk about? Since I just reviewed Machingers Gloves last week, I’m going to give two lucky readers each a pair of gloves to try out.

It’s easy to enter, simply post a comment (any comment) and you’ll be entered to win. I’ll randomly select 2 winners and post their names here on the blog. I’ll also notify them via email. Contest ends this Friday, November 30th at 9PM Pacific Time (Midnight Eastern).

Good luck!


Updated November 30th, 9:30 PM

Thank you all for participating. This was a fun contest to run and all of the comments were much appreciated! We now have our winners!

The first winner, drawn at random is:

Judith:

Right now, I’m using a pair of slightly textured gardening gloves. The disadvantage is that they’re fairly bulky and not particularly grippy. The advantage is that I can blame any quilting gaffes on the gloves ;-) Thanks for the great giveaway opportunity.


The second winner, also drawn at random is

Evelyn H:

I haven’t done your Chevron quilt, but I made the Jolly Jelly Roll. I love that pattern. I would love a pair of the quilting gloves, which are on my Christmas wish list! Thanks for doing this and for your fun tutorials.

Congratulations, ladies! I will be emailing you shortly with your winning prize!

Favorite Tools #10 – Machingers Quilting Gloves

Machingers Quilt GlovesProbably one of the most important tools I own that has improved my quilting is Machingers Quilting Gloves.

I first heard about them when I took a series of quilting lectures from Joanie Poole. She highly recommended them so I bought a pair, but then I quickly shoved them in a drawer and soon forgot all about them.

About a year later I discovered the Free Motion Quilting Project and they were again recommended by Leah Day. So I bought another pair and this time I finally used them!

The reason they work so well is that they give your hands some extra grip while quilting.

The hardest thing to deal with when quilting is the drag on the quilt. I have drop-in table and also use a Free-Motion Slider whenever doing FMQ (free-motion quilting). However, the quilt gloves give that little bit of extra friction that is needed while pushing and shoving my quilt around underneath the needle.

And yes, I highly recommend the push & shove, pull & scrunch method of quilting –  no quilt clips for me! Machingers work wonders when doing lots of intricate free-motion work like on my Busy Hands quilt below. I sure kept my gloved hands busy when quilting this quilt!

Busy Hands Quilt

I use the gloves even when I am stitching in the ditch with a walking foot, or quilting straight lines, like on  my Charming Chevrons quilt below.

Machingers Stitch in the Ditch

The tips of the gloves do seem to yellow and get dirty after a lot of use, but they are safe to throw in the washing machine and I’ve washed mine several times. Sometimes I feel a little bit like a white glove lady or like I’m all dressed up for a party with my fancy gloves, but I have found that they make all the difference in the world when quilting.

Charming Chevrons Followup #3

I’m getting a great response from my Charming Chevrons quilt tutorial. With the easy to piece blocks they are going together very quickly.  Several blog readers are making it in alternate sizes, too.

Chevron Blocks

I was very happy to find a larger seam roller to use in pressing my blocks. I started off using a narrow roller. But when I took Deb Karasik’s workshop she recommended using one with a wider roll, sort of like a wallpaper roller.

Narrow Seam Roller

Wide Seam RollerYou can order one directly from Deb’s store.

I hope to carry them too!

By the way, here’s a picture of Kathie’s quilt in progress using coordinated fabrics and larger blocks cut 8.5 inches instead of 5 inches. The graphic colorscheme is rockin’!!

Kathie's ChevronsKathie is thinking of using Minkee on the back. I think that would be fabulous and she could even skip the batting if she wants!

You’ll notice that Kathie folded and pressed her blocks to get the diagonal registration lines rather than marking them with a pen. This works, too!

Fold and Press HSTThe beauty of this pattern is that it will work in ANY size because the blocks are all the same size. You can also use fewer blocks or make your quilt larger by adding borders. Remember, this is YOUR quilt so I give you blanket permission to change it any way YOU want! Now, wasn’t that fun??

Christa’s Quilt Along 3.1 – Charming Chevrons Supply List

Free Quilt Pattern

New to my blog? Be sure to sign up for my email newsletter to get a free pattern!

Charming Chevrons

I am so excited to start my next quilt along! I’m having a blast designing new quilt patterns and breaking them down into easy to follow step-by-step tutorials.

To purchase a PDF download of this pattern, click here.

What do you get when you combine a couple of charm packs with a fun geometric design made from triangles? The answer is Charming Chevrons (48″ x 56″), shown below:

Charming Chevrons

I designed my quilt using Kona Cotton charm packs in their new classic palette.

I have put together quilt kits using the exact fabrics shown above, plus a couple of variations using these Moda charm packs shown below.

American Jane School Days

American Jane School Days

Chez Moi Coquette

Chez Moi Coquette

Supply List

Important! If you’d like to pick your own charms, make sure that each pack contains at least 42 – 5 inch squares. Be sure to purchase or cut extra charms if needed.

Fabric

  • 2 of the same charm packs in darks or prints – 84 charms total (Kona colors above)
  • 2 of the same charm packs in lights or neutral solids – 84 charms total (Grey above)
  • 1/2 yard for the binding (can be same as the background or something else)
  • 3 yards for backing split into 2 equal pieces if using all the same fabric. If you prefer a scrappy backing like I do, collect assorted chunks and scraps to total this amount.
  • Batting piece measuring at least 54″ x 62″ – (why not piece together some leftovers?)

Supplies

  • Basic sewing equipment in good working order
  • Rotary cutting mat and equipment
  • Iron and/or pressing tool
  • A variety of acrylic plastic ruler sizes including a 6 inch square up ruler (or larger)
  • Brand new sewing machine needles (I always start with a fresh needle on a new project!)
  • Frixion marking pen for drawing straight piecing lines (or your favorite marking pen)
  • Neutral cotton thread for piecing
  • Decorative thread to match fabrics for quilting
  • Walking foot for straight line quilting
  • Optional – darning foot for free-motion quilting (FMQ)
  • Optional – design wall or large space to lay out your design
  • Optional – blue water soluble marking pen for marking quilting lines
  • Optional – pinmoors and pins for easy basting
  • Optional – supreme slider, machingers gloves, bobbin washers for smooth FMQ

Sewing Schedule (All links will be active once each step has been completed.)

Based on past tutorials, I am allowing plenty of time to sew the quilt together so no one feels rushed. You are always welcome to work ahead or slow it down. That’s the beauty of this quilt along – you can sew and quilt at your own pace!

Sharing is Caring

Please share your work in progress in my facebook group: Quilt With Christa . 🙂