Christa’s Quilt Along 4.6 – Basting Sea of Squares

January 30, 2013July 7, 20197 Comments

I finished my pieced backing from last week and now it’s time to baste Sea of Squares!

The backing took me 2 hours to cut, piece and starch. The basting also took 2 hours, so it was a very pleasant way to spend my day today. 🙂

Sea of Squares Pieced Backing

I follow these four steps whenever I baste a quilt:

(1) Completely secure the backing to a large flat surface. I use two heavy duty utility tables that I got from an office supply store. They are 8′ long and I keep them up all the time. It’s my work surface and my cutting area, plus the kids use them for art projects and homework. So they get a lot of use!

You can also use just one table if space is limited and move your quilt around as needed. I use office binder clips to secure the two edges of my backing to the edge of the table.
Then I use a generous amount of tape to secure the other edges. You want to make sure that your backing extends past your batting and quilt top by at least a couple of inches.

(2) Next, layer your batting on top of your backing and smooth it out nicely.

I am using 1 layer of cotton batting with 1/2 layer of wool – yes, it actually pulls apart. (For my previous quilt, Charming Chevrons, I used a layer of cotton and a full layer of wool. I loved the “heft” of it but it was a bit thick to quilt through. I’ll let you know I like it.)

Notice that there is no need to secure the batting layer.

(3) Grab a helper to gently lay your quilt top onto the center of your batting/backing layer.

If you are doing this solo, you can quarter your quilt instead and unfold it one quarter of a time. But I prefer a helper if I can manage it! If either your top or backing are directional, don’t forget to check to make sure your quilt is oriented correctly before you begin.

(4) Finally, let the basting begin! I prefer to use flat flower pins and pinmoors to baste. I insert the pins in the quilt first, one section at a time. Then I cap them all with pinmoors.

With my table, I can reach all the way to the center of the quilt, so I can baste half of the quilt from one side; then I finish up on the other side.

A note about Pinmoors…

Pinmoors are a bit pricey but are well worth the investment. If you’d like to try them, I suggest buying one package and baste as much area as you can. Then, baste the rest of the quilt with regular safety pins.

When you are done quilting, take note of how much quicker and easier the pins and pinmoors were to remove versus regular safety pins!

One note of caution – if you move and scrunch your quilt under your machine like I do, watch for any pinmoors that accidentally fall off so you don’t get poked! Be sure to push the pins in far enough so that they are secure.

Now the quilt is ready for quilting next week. Be sure to post pictures of your quilt top, pieced backing or quilting on my flickr group: Christa’s Quilt Along.

You can also share pictures of any of my previous quilt-alongs that you are working on!

Quilt-Along Schedule – Links are Active at the Completion of Each Step:

Quilt Kits are available for a limited time in these two colorways:

Apple Jacks

Sea of Squares

Modern Love Mini Quilt Along #2

January 28, 2013July 1, 20157 Comments

Thanks for joining me for part 2 of my Love Mini Quilt Along. Links for the supply list and the tutorial schedule are shown at the end of this post.

I am making this table runner which finishes approximately 30″ x 12″. I played around with EQ7 and fabric swatches from BasicGrey’s Kissing Booth to come up with a couple of different color options. My version is shown for the step-by-step photos and at the end.

Step 1 – Cutting the Fabric

Cut 4 roughly 4.5″ squares for your letters (red). You will prepare them in step 2 below. Or you can fussy cut your appliques by using a big chunk of fabric instead.
Cut 4 – 5″ squares of background fabric (cream).
Cut 13 – 2″ x 5″ rectangles for sashing (red check).
Cut 10 – 2″ squares for sashing squares (red).
Cut 2 – 2.5″ x 8″ strips for side borders (pink floral).
Cut 2 – 2.5″ x 30″ strips for top/bottom borders (pink floral).
Cut 3 – 2.25″ x WOF (Width of Fabric) strips for binding.
Cut 1 – 14″ x 32″ piece of batting.
Cut 1 – 16″ x 34″ piece of fabric for backing.

Step 2 – Preparing the Love Letters

Download and print of a copy of the letters L-O-V-E (click here). (Or if you’d like to be a little more creative, you can enlarge any font style you like and make your own letters.)

Flip your paper over so that your letters are backwards. Trace the backwards letters onto the paper side of your fusible web.

You may need to use a lightbox to see through the paper. Or print the letters out on transparent vellum for tracing.

Rough cut around each fusible paper letter. Then following the mfg’s instructions, adhere your fusible web to the backside of your letter fabric. Use this phrase: rough to wrong. The rough (glue) side of the web needs to be stuck to the back (wrong) side of your fabric.

I used Pearl Bracelets fabric for my letters and positioned them to take advantage of the printed design. Cut out the letters following their outlines. Don’t forget to cut out the center of the O! You have now made your own iron-on appliques.

Step 3 – Assembling the Quilt Top

Sew your inner-quilt pieces (IQ) into 3 separate rows (sash row, block row, sash row):

You will notice I have not added the letters yet. I like to add them once the top is done so I can space them just right. Press seams open or towards the sashing fabric.

Join the rows and add side borders that are trimmed to size. Then add the top and bottom borders and press towards the border fabric.

Remove the backing from your cut out letters. Following the mfg’s instructions, adhere them to your block backgrounds. You can eyeball them in place, arrange them whimsically, or use a ruler to measure exact placement. It’s up to you!

Next week I will demonstrate you how to applique and quilt all at the same time. The key is to use thin thread that matches your letter fabric. I prefer silk or very thin polyester thread for this, but regular cotton thread is ok, too.

Here is the mini-quilt along schedule. Links will become active once that blog post is done.

Part 1 Supply List
Part 2 Sewing the Top – today’s post
Part 3 Machine Applique and Quilting – Monday February 11

Please join my ChristasQuiltAlong flickr group to share pictures of your work-in-progress!

For these other arrangements, just follow the modified steps below.

The vertical love wall banner uses the exact same directions as the table runner except that the letters are arranged vertically instead of horizontally – watch out for directional fabrics and cut them accordingly.

To make the 18″ Love Square wall-hanging or pillow, use these cutting instructions:

Cut 4 – 4.5″ squares for your letters.
Cut 4 – 5″ squares of background fabric.
Cut 12 – 2″ x 5″ rectangles for sashing.
Cut 9 – 2″ squares for sashing squares.
Cut 2 – 2.5″ x 14″ strips for side borders.
Cut 2 – 2.5″ x 18.5″ strips for top/bottom borders (pink floral).
Cut 2 – 2.25″ x WOF (Width of Fabric) strips for binding (for wallhanging only).
Cut 1 – 20″ square piece of batting.
Cut 1 – 22″ square piece of fabric for backing (use muslin or scrap for pillow).

Then sew together so that it looks like the diagram above.

Christa’s Quilt Along 4.5 – Sea of Squares Pieced Backing

January 23, 2013August 17, 201918 Comments

Click here to sign up for more fun and free quilt alongs!!

Today I will show you two different ways to make a pieced quilt backing: (1) All from one fabric, or (2) from scraps and chunks. I have a little “cheater” disclaimer here. Since I am on vacation this week, I haven’t actually had time to sew my back together. Most of my tutorial pictures were designed in EQ7, but I’ll whip up my own back in no time when I return!

Step 1 – Measure Your Quilt Top

A good rule of thumb is to measure your quilt top and then add 4 inches around the perimeter on all four sides. This means you will take your quilt dimensions and add a total of 8 inches to each number. Let me demonstrate:

My quilt top measures 51″ x 62″ from raw edge to raw edge. I will add 8″ total giving me a needed back dimension of 59″ x 70″.

Step 2 – Calculate the Yardage Needed For One Fabric

The backing width I need is 59 inches as stated above. Rounding that up to the nearest 1/4 yard increment gives me 1.75 yards of fabric (or 63 inches). However, that will give me a length of just 44 inches from selvedge to selvedge (which I round down to 40 inches to account for seam allowances and trimmed edges). But I need a total length of 70″.

Pieced Back 63″ x 80″

To solve this problem, I will need to double the amount of fabric purchased to 3.5 yards. This will allow me to use two 1.75 yard pieces and seam them together to get a total measurement of 63″ wide x 80″ long.

Step 3 – Calculate Pieced Sizes for a Scrappy Backing

If you like an artistic backing like I do, take your diagram above and subdivide it into smaller chunks and random pieces. Use your creativity and fabrics from your stash as a guide. Here’s one hint – if you have a lot of white in your quilt top like mine, try to use lighter fabrics on the back so they don’t show through to the front.

I will “draw” a pieced backing measuring 60″ x 70″ (for easy math) and fill it in like a puzzle, adding random chunks wherever I choose. My diagram looks nice and straight but you can certainly use improve techniques with more wonky lines to achieve a similar effect.

Just remember that the outer 4-5 inches will be cut off so do not place any smaller chunks near the edges. For my diagram above, I have selected 10 chunks of fabric. Let’s look and see how they would be sewn together:

Add chunks 1, 2 and 3 together, then chunk 4
Sew 5 & 6 together, then add to piece 1-4
Next, sew 7-8 into one unit and 9-10 into another unit
Piece both of these sections together
Then add the top piece (1-6) to the bottom piece (7-10)

I will press seam allowances open and use a liberal amount of starch to keep everything tidy.

If you would like to follow my diagram exactly, here is how large you would cut each piece:

8.5″ x 32.5″
12.5″ x 32.5″
20.5″ x 10.5″
20.5″ x 42.5″
20.5″ x 10.5″
20.5″ x 32.5″
14.5″ x 28.5″
18.5″ x 28.5″
28.5″ x 14.5″
28.5″ x 14.5″

Quilt-Along Schedule – Links are Active at the Completion of Each Step:

Sharing is Caring

Please share your work in progress in my facebook group: Quilt With Christa . 🙂

Christa’s Quilt Along 4.4 – Sea of Squares Quilt Top

January 17, 2013August 15, 201310 Comments

This week it’s time to finish sewing the Sea of Squares quilt top. If you are just joining me, please scroll down to the end for links to each step of this do-it-yourself quilt tutorial. It took me a total of 2.5 hours to complete the steps shown below.

Step 1 – Quilt Layout (30 minutes)

Lay out all 42 of your blocks on a design wall or other large flat surface, or even the floor. Play around with your block arrangement until you find a pleasing composition. Take pictures of any arrangements you like as you “play.”

Arrange your blocks in a 6 x 7 grid – 7 rows of 6 blocks each. Be sure to alternate between your X and O blocks and distribute your values and colors evenly.

Step 2 – Sewing the Rows (1 Hour)

For this quilt layout, it’s easiest to sew the top together in rows. I numbered them 1 through 7. You can press all of the odd blocks in one direction, and all of the even rows in the opposite direction so that seams will nestle together when sewing.

If the darker fabric shows through the white, you may choose to press your seams open.

For a speedy sewing tip, I stacked up all of my blocks into pairs of two next to my sewing machine. I added a pin to the right had side to indicate this is the side I will be sewing.

Before sewing, I took a photo of my layout with camera’s phone. I referred to the layout as I sewed the rows together and was able to keep the blocks lined up in order. I continued joining the blocks together in order until I had 7 rows of sewn blocks.

Since my design wall was too small for all of the rows, I used part of the floor, too!

Step 3 – Completing the Quilt Top (1 Hour)

First, sew the top two rows together.

Pin at all of the intersections (I like using flat-head flower pins).

Be sure to remove your pins just before you get to them so you don’t accidentally break a needle. (Ask me how I know?!)

Next, sew together rows 3-4 and 5-6 together in the same manner.

Row 7 will be on it’s own. Next, you can join each of these segments into larger “chunks”.

Join rows 1-4 and rows 5-7.

Add these two “chunks” together to complete the quilt top.

Give your top a final pressing and set aside. Or do what I do: leave it up on your design wall for awhile to admire it until it’s time to baste and quilt!

I have decided to split apart the backing and basting into two separate tutorials so I can go more in-depth with each. Next week I will show how to sew a pieced quilt backing, either all from the same fabric, or from bits and pieces from your stash (my favorite). You need a total of 3 1/2 yards for the backing (perhaps a little more if piecing lots of chunks together).

Due to the popularity of this quilt kit, I have put together a limited number of kits in an alternate colorway. This one is called Apple Jacks and would be perfect for a little boy!

Quilt-Along Schedule – Links are Active at the Completion of Each Step:

Be sure to post pictures of your progress on my flickr group: Christa’s Quilt Along.

Quilt Kits are available for a limited time.

Modern Love Mini Quilt Along #1

January 16, 2013July 5, 201349 Comments

I have decided to create a mini quilt-along to express how I feel about quilting – pure love! Just in time for Valentine’s Day, I am going to make this table runner using machine applique techniques. You can follow along with me according to the schedule below:

Part 1 Supply List – Today, January 16 (See Below)
Part 2 Sewing the Top – Monday January 28
Part 3 Machine Applique and Quilting – Monday February 11

Supply List for Love Quilt Runner, Finished Size Approximately 31″ x 12″

1 Fat Quarter Cream Background
1 Fat Quarter Red for Letters
1 Fat Quarter Red for Small Sashing Squares
1 Fat Quarter Pink/Red Check for Sashing
1/3 Yard Pink for Outer Border (or 1 FQ if you don’t mind a pieced border)
1 Fat Quarter Red for Binding
1/2 Yard Fabric for Backing
18″ x 36″ Piece of Batting
1 Sheet of Fusible Web (at least 8 1/2″ x 11″)
Thread to match your applique letters fabric
Matching thread for machine quilting (cotton or polyester)
New Sewing Machine Needle

Although I will be using different fabrics than those shown above, I will use the same color-scheme of red and pink. You can do this in whatever colors you like!

And just to give you more options, I have made a couple other arrangements:

Although I will be making just the table runner, the fabric requirements above will be enough to make any of the layouts shown here.

The Love square would also make a cute pillow.

Please join my ChristasQuiltAlong flickr group to share pictures of your work-in-progress!

Christa’s Quilt Along 4.3 – Sea of Squares Blocks

January 9, 2013September 26, 201916 Comments

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Today it’s time to sew all of the cut pieces and charms together to make our Sea of Squares blocks. We will sew a total of 21 “X” blocks and 21 “O” blocks. It took me 4.5 hours total.

Step 1 – Sewing the X blocks (2.5 Hours)

I like to chain piece as much as possible. This means sewing the pieces together in an assembly-line fashion without cutting your threads in between pieces until you are done.

Chain Piecing

Start with the middle section of the X block which is composed of one dark 5 inch charm and two white (light) 2.5 x 5 inch rectangles. Use 1/4 inch seam allowances at all times.

To chain piece this section, sew 21 white rectangles to one side of all 21 dark charms. Then go back and add 21 white rectangles to the other side of all 21 charms.

Sew white rectangles to either side of charm square.

Sew white rectangles to either side of each charm square.

You should have a total of 21 completed “middle” sections. Finger press your seam allowances open or to the darker fabric. I like to use a wooden seam roller for this.

I prefer to use a seam roller whenever I can, especially when working with white fabric. I use the iron as little as possible to reduce the chances of scorching or distorting my fabrics. If you press nice and firmly with the seam roller, the seams will lie down nicely. Then I give the blocks a final pressing with an iron at the end.

Seam roll the back.

Seam roll the front.

After the middles are complete, sew all of the tops and bottoms. I like to sort all 4 of each smaller dark square together so it’s easier to stay organized and sew each as needed.

Sew a small dark 2.5 inch square to either side of a light 2.5 x 5 inch rectangle. Repeat this for a total of 42 units (21 for the top and 21 for the bottom). Press toward the dark fabric.

X Block Units

Pinning at intersections, join the top part of your block to all of the middles. Be sure to take out your pins as you go so you don’t sew over them.

Add the bottoms to all of your blocks in the same manner and press seams open.

Step 2 – Sewing the O Blocks (2 Hours)

The O blocks are sewn together in the same manner but with reversed fabric placement. It took me a little less time to sew them because I was in my groove!

Again, starting with the middles, add the same dark rectangle to either side of a white (light) charm. Repeat this for 21 middles.

Moving on to the tops and bottoms of the O block, add one white square to the end of 42 dark rectangles. Then repeat for the other end of the rectangle until you have 42 sewn units.

Add a top and bottom unit to each side of your middle. Again, pin and chain piece all of the top units; then go back and chain piece all of the bottom units.

Press all of the final seams open so that you can eliminate the shadowing of the darker fabric through the white background. Do this with an iron, but be careful not to scorch the fabric.

You should have a total of 42 blocks, half X’s, and half O’s. They should all measure 9 inches from raw edge to raw edge. The finished size of these blocks will be 8.5 inches. If your blocks are larger or smaller, it’s ok. As long as they are all the same size the design will work.

That’s it for this lesson! Next week we will put them up on a design wall and “play” to find a pleasing arrangement.

Quilt-Along Schedule – Links are Active at the Completion of Each Step:

Please email me pictures of your progress on this quilt or any of my previous tutorials! You can reach me at christa@christaquilts.com.

Quilt Kits for Sea of Squares and all of my other blog tutorials are available in my shop for a limited time.

Christa’s Quilt Along 4.2 – Sea of Squares Cutting

January 2, 2013August 15, 201314 Comments

This week we will start our Sea of Squares quilt by cutting all the pieces from charm packs: 2 light and 2 dark. I used 2 packs of Seascapes and 2 packs of White Bella Solids. As long as you have great contrast between your light and dark charms, this quilt will turn out great!

It took me just under an hour to complete this week’s homework.

Step 1 – Sorting the Squares (10 Minutes)

This seems like a very basic step, but it is important to sort all of the squares so that you cut them correctly. Of course you can make your quilt as scrappy as you like, and then you don’t need to worry as much about fabric placement.

Each block is made from 4 charm squares – 2 of the same dark plus 2 of the same light.
Let’s call them X blocks and O blocks.

The X blocks have a dark charm in the middle with matching smaller squares in the corners. The O blocks have a light charm in the middle with matching light squares in the corners. You will be sewing a total of 21 X blocks and 21 O blocks.

Sort your 84 dark charms into 2 piles – 42 charms for the X blocks (2 identical charms per X), and 42 charms for the for the O blocks (2 identical charms per O).

Moda charm packs are wonderful because each comes with exactly 42 squares with the same number of duplicates per pack. (Print placement may vary depending on how it’s cut).

Sort your 84 light charm packs into 3 piles:

Pile 1 = 21 white charms (whole) for the block centers.
Pile 2 = 21 white charms (to cut) for the little squares.
Pile 3 = 42 white charms (to cut) for the rectangles.

Step 2 – Cutting the Dark (Print) Charms (25 minutes)

From your “X” pile, pull out 1 of each charm for a total of 21 intact squares.

From the remaining 21 squares, cut them into 4 – 2.5 x 2.5 inch squares each. You should then have a total of 84 smaller squares that match the prints of the larger squares.

From your “O” pile, cut all of the squares in half yielding 2 rectangles each. You should have a total of 84 dark rectangles measuring 2.5 x 5 inches each.

Step 3 – Cutting the Light (White) Charms (15 minutes)

Set aside pile 1 which is composed of 21 light squares (5 inches square).

From pile 2, cut the 21 light squares into 4 equal smaller squares each. You should have a total of 84 small light squares, measuring 2.5 x 2.5 inches each.

From pile 3, cut all 42 light squares in half yielding 2 rectangles each. You should have a total of 84 half square rectangles, measuring 2.5 x 5 inches each.

Light Charms: Cut Piles 1, 2 and 3

Now that your pieces are all cut out, you are ready to begin sewing the top together next week. Wasn’t that fun?

Quilt-Along Schedule – Links are Active at the Completion of Each Step:

Week 1 – Supply List
Week 2 – Sorting and Cutting the Charms (today’s post above)
Week 3 – Sewing the Blocks
Week 4 – Completing the Quilt Top
Week 5 – Piecing the Backing
Week 6 – Basting
Week 7 – Machine Quilting
Week 8 – Optional Extra Quilting
Week 9 – Machine Binding to Finish

You can email me pictures of your progress at christa@christaquilts.com. I can’t wait to see all the variety and possibilities with this quilt!

Christa’s Quilt Along 4.1 – Sea of Squares Supply List

December 27, 2012May 10, 201810 Comments

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Sea of Squares

Sea of Squares is the 4th in my series of do-it-yourself quilts where I will take you through all of the steps of making a quilt from fabric selection to cutting, piecing, basting, machine quilting and binding. If you follow along with me you will have a completed quilt in no time!

About This Quilt – Finished Size Approximately 51.5″ x 60″

I designed this quilt in EQ7 and downloaded fabric images from Moda to color it.

I named it “Sea of Squares” because I wanted to make a simple quilt pattern from nothing but charm squares. I used Deb Strain’s Seascapes in calming shades of blue from teal to navy to aqua, with Bella Solids in white for the background. This monochromatic color-scheme calls to mind the tranquility of the sea with the occasional whitecap of a breaking wave.

Supply List

Important! If you’d like to pick your own charms, make sure that each pack contains at least 42 – 5 inch squares. Not all manufacturers are consistent with their charms.

Each block consists of 4 charms (2 light/2 dark) so cut or purchase additional charms as needed for a bigger size. You may also use layer cakes if you want to super-size it!

Fabric

2 of the same charm packs in darks or prints – 84 charms total (seascape blues)
2 of the same charm packs in lights or solids – 84 charms total (solid white)
1/2 yard for the binding (one of the blues in the picture above)
3.5 yards for backing split into 2 equal pieces if using all the same fabric. If you prefer a scrappy backing like I do, collect assorted chunks and scraps to total this amount.
Batting piece measuring at least 60″ x 70″

Supplies

Basic sewing equipment in good working order
Rotary cutter with a fresh blade, ruler and mat
Brand new sewing machine needles
Neutral cotton thread for piecing
Decorative thread to match fabrics for quilting
Walking foot for straight line quilting
Optional – pinmoors and pins for easy basting
Optional – machingers gloves for smooth quilting

Quilt-Along Schedule – Links are Active at the Completion of Each Step:

Week 1 – Supply List (today’s blog post above)
Week 2 – Sorting and Cutting the Charms
Week 3 – Sewing the Blocks
Week 4 – Completing the Quilt Top
Week 5 – Piecing the Backing
Week 6 – Basting
Week 7 – Machine Quilting
Week 8 – Optional Extra Quilting
Week 9 – Machine Binding to Finish

I plan on posting each week on Wednesday or Thursday depending on how my “homework” goes that week. Even though I will be sticking to the above schedule, feel free to work at your own pace.

By the way, this quilt uses the exact same fabric requirements as my previous Charming Chevrons quilt – so you can do either one, or both, depending on your mood!

Sharing is Caring

Please share your work in progress in my facebook group: Quilt With Christa . 🙂

Christa’s Quilt Along 3.9 – Finishing Charming Chevrons

December 13, 2012August 13, 201513 Comments

Free Quilt Pattern

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I’ve come to the end of my Charming Chevrons tutorial and it’s kind of sad. I really loved every minute of making this quilt! Today I will demo binding. Scroll to the end for links to the previous steps plus my announcement for my next DIY quilt-along starting next week!

Christa’s Charming Chevrons

If you like this quilt and want to make one just like it, Charming Chevrons quilt kits are available from my shop for a limited time.

Step 1 – Trimming The Edges (10 Minutes)

When the quilting has been completed and all of your basting pins removed, it’s time to trim the extra backing and batting and square up your quilt.

Use a large square ruler for the corners and a long 6 to 8 inch wide ruler for the sides. The markings on the ruler help keep things nice and even. I use the long lines to make sure I am cutting straight.

If the quilt seems a little wavy, I will block it at the end after binding by soaking it in the washing machine, and laying it out flat on a table to dry. (I do this only if I know for sure the fabrics won’t bleed when wet – I’ve had way too many “accidents.”)

Step 2 – Making the Binding Strips (15 Minutes)

I sew continuous double fold straight grain binding strips that I make myself.

Cut enough 2 1/4″ wide strips to go around the perimeter plus about 10 extra inches.

For this quilt I cut a total of 7 strips that measured 2 1/4″ by the width of the fabric (40″-42″).

Join the strips together on a mitered (45 degree) angle to smooth out the seam formed by sewing the strips.

Join all the strips together so that you have one continuous piece with the joined seams all going the same direction.

At the beginning of the binding, cut off one end at a 45 degree angle. Then press the binding in half lengthwise (press seam allowances open).

Step 3 – Attaching the Binding to the Quilt by Machine (35 Minutes)

Leave a few inches of a “tail” unsewn when you begin.

Do not start at a corner, and quickly measure your binding around the perimeter of the quilt to ensure it is long enough.

Try not to end up where you have any of your seams in the corners. Adjust your start if needed.

Use a matching cotton thread in the top and bobbin and use the same thread to finish your binding (whether by hand or machine).

Using a walking foot, sew with 1/4″ seam allowances and stop when you reach exactly 1/4″ inch from the end of your first corner. Take the quilt off the machine and fold the corner like the pictures below. This will create nice crisp mitered corners when you fold them over.

Click on the pictures below to see a larger version for more detailed closeups.

Repeat for all corners of the quilt and leave a few inches of “tail” when you near the end.

Open up both folded ends and with a pen, mark where the beginning meets the end.

Cut off the excess 1/2″ away from the marked line (for seam allowances) and join the two ends together.

You can see I cut off a full extra strip’s length of binding but just barely!

It’s better to have too much length than not enough!

Once your ends are joined, finish sewing down the binding completely to the front of the quilt.

Step 4 – Hold the Binding in Place With Pins or Glue (30 Minutes)

To baste the binding in place on back, I usually use pins and Pinmoors. However, for this quilt, I wanted to try a glue pen to temporarily adhere the binding to the back of the quilt. It worked like a charm and I got to see what the quilt looked like before it was done. I was even able to glue the corners in place to form a pretty miter. That will be much easier to sew!

Step 4 – Finish by Hand or Machine (Hand Sewing 5 Hours)

Whether I finish my binding by hand or machine, the above steps are still the same. Because I finished this quilt for QuiltCon (and possibly other quilt shows), I chose to sew by hand. So I got nice and comfy on the couch and watched a couple movies while I stitched away.

For more info on both types of finishes, you can read my post about hand-binding and my machine binding tutorial.

Charming Chevrons Tutorials. Click the links below to go to that post.

Week 1 – Supply List and Introduction
Week 2 – Marking and Sewing the Charms
Week 3 – Cutting and Trimming the Triangle Squares
Week 4 – Sewing the Chevron Blocks
Week 5 – Assembling the Quilt Top
Week 6 – Marking and Basting
Week 7 – Machine Quilting Straight Lines
Week 8 – Free Motion Pebble Quilting
Week 9 – Binding and Finishing Your Quilt (today’s post above)

Here are Charming Chevron’s Vital Statistics

Original design, pieced and quilted by Christa Watson
Finished size 46″ x 54″, completed November 2012
Finished block size 8″, 42 blocks total
Made from 4 packs of Kona Cotton charm squares (2 New Classic colors, 2 Ash grey)
Pieced backing, shades of grey with pops of color
Double batting (Warm-N-Natural and Legacy Wool)
Superior Highlights trilobal polyester in top and bobbin for pebbles (18 colors)
Isacord Sterling polyester in top and bobbin for chevron outlines
Total piecing time: 9.5 hours
Marking and basting: 2.5 hours
Total quilting time: 28 hours
Total binding time: 6.75 hours

Sharing is Caring

Please share your work in progress in my facebook group: Quilt With Christa . 🙂

Paper Pieced Wreath Berry Christmas – Part 2 of 2

December 11, 2012July 1, 20158 Comments

I’m back with the second part of my Paper Pieced Log Cabin Christmas Wreath. You can see part 1 here.

Today I will demo the rest of paper piecing the blocks, finishing the top, and machine quilting my mini-quilt to finish.

Here is a refresher of the paper piecing process from last week with a few more detailed pictures. My favorite method of paper piecing uses a straight edge and an add a quarter ruler. Be sure to click the images below for closeups.

Step 1 – Paper Piece all of your Log Cabin Blocks from Last Week

(You can download the log cabin foundations for free or you can purchase a set of printed foundations on lightweight see-through vellum paper from my store.)

Add your next log to a freshly trimmed side.
Flip over and sew from the paper side following the numbered lines in order
Press your sewn seam with a wooden seam roller
Fold the paper on the next seam number that you will be sewing (use a business card or postcard as a straight edge)
Pull back your excess fabric, use the add a quarter inch ruler and trim the excess.
When all 16 blocks are sewn, trim from the paper side leaving 1/4″ seams all around

Step 2 – Sew The Top

Lay out your 16 Log Cabin blocks so that they form a wreath shape.
Sew each row into pairs and then the pairs into rows of 4 blocks
Finger press your seams open, or press with a wooden seam roller
Join the rows to complete the top
Once the top is complete, carefully remove all the papers
Add the thinner red borders to the sides and top
Add the wider green borders around the outside

Step 3 – Baste and Quilt

I quilt everything on my regular Bernina home sewing machine and I love it!

I use Pinmoors and flat flower pins to baste all of my quilts because they are so easy to remove while machine quilting.

Before basting, I marked straight lines around the wreath design with a water soluble pen. Always be sure to test your fabrics for marking removal and to make sure they won’t bleed when they get wet.

I quilted the straight lines with my walking foot. Then I added double loops in the borders and smaller loops in the background with my free-motion foot.

I used matching solid red fabric for the binding. For this quilt, I tried a Sewline glue pen to keep the binding in place on the back while finishing by hand. It keeps my binding nice and tidy!

You can see an in-depth binding tutorial here.